What to eat in Istanbul: the dishes, explained

Every big Turkish dish, explained: what it is, how it is eaten, and which full guide has the places, prices and maps. Pick a section below.

Breakfast: the meal Istanbul refuses to rush

How Istanbul starts the day: the full kahvaltı spread, menemen, börek, and the weekday simit.

Street food: eating standing up

The dishes you eat standing up: balık ekmek, döner, kokoreç, çiğ köfte and the rest.

The kebab map: Adana to Iskender

The kebab family tree, and how to tell one from another before you order.

Dough and the oven: pide, lahmacun, mantı

The oven canon: pide, lahmacun, mantı and their kin.

The meze table, and what to drink with it

How the meze evening works, and what gets poured beside it.

Sweet endings: the three dessert families

The three dessert families: syrup, milk and dough.

If you only learn five dishes, start here

The shortlist for a first visit: five dishes that explain the whole city.